Hi guys quick question on airbrushing.

[banzai]

Hi guys, a quick question... Recently I've remembered something I've always had issues with. How do you go about priming and evenly airbrushing very deep detailed areas? I find its do-able but I tend to end up wasting a lot of paint in the process because of the kickback from the spray. For example...



The yellow areas... There's plenty of ridges and a lot of small details where when I spray with my normal PSI, the spray tends to kick back a lot. Also its a deep depression so the paint doesn't have an open surface to cling to easily... I find I end up angling the parts in to all sorts of weird angles to reach different areas and getting an even coat is very difficult. I have tried 2 different methods so far, with mixed results. First method was to lower the psi, thin the mixture more and spray very very light coats further away from the part, building up layers and colour very slowly. This has worked but sometimes I thin the mixture too much and it doesn't dry fast enough so it starts to run on the surface. The paint goes on unevenly as well since its primarily the very raised areas that gets the majority of the paint, and the very low/depressed areas gets very little. So the paint job isn't as even as I'd like it to be. (Perfectionist. )

2nd method I've tried is to use my normal, milk consistency mixture and to increase psi, but instead of a normal stroke I move the AB in close and "blast" the paint in, covering as much surface with very quick, sharp blasts of air. This hasn't been as successful, as sometimes the paint can collect and give me drip or a sagging paint finish.

I was wondering how you guys tackle bits like this. I find I have the same issue when airbrushing the inside of thruster wells and gun/bazooka barrels too. Can anyone share they way they deal with these kinds of parts?

[Phoon]

Alternate solution:
Handpiece - 0.2 / 0.3
Air pressure - below 10 psi ( pending on the object shape)
Adjustable trigger set to the finest.

I used this preference for tackling 'dead' area and free hand camo outline.

[banzai]

Ahh I see. As thin and as fine a line as possible. Yes yes very good. Sometimes my compressor has problems with very low psi, though. Stupid thing... No problem hitting 60psi, drop below 12 and sometimes loses all compression. maybe time to get new compressor.

[Rayloke]

yes, agree with phoon. low psi, thin layer over layer. It takes time, but good things always take time dont they?

I would think your 1st method is more like it. but instead of move the hand piece further away from the part, put it near. spray very thin layer.

Thin layer will reduce paint floating in the air that "trapped" in such area n eventually "accidently" hit on any surface around it n result in rough finishing. However, it will still happen no matter how thin your paint is. The tip is: spray thin layer(mist coat), small area, immediately off your nozzle but continue to let the air out.

This serve 2 purposes, 1. to blow n clear away the trapped ait n paint. 2 to help the paint dry on the surface u have just sprayed.

That's how i do it. spray a bit, then blow air only.

[banzai]

Great stuff. Okay here's my issue though. Tried this, works great for about 5-10 seconds, but I'm not sure what the problem is... When I adjust to lower than 10-12psi very often I don't get consistent psi... Its like there's a low cutoff point or something. The tank is fine, compression stays fine and consistent at higher levels but once I drop to very low psi levels I can shoot out air for only a few seconds before psi slowly starts to drop lower and lower and the airflow eventually cuts off.

So question... I don't think its the compressor that's causing this, or the tank since everything is great at 12 psi and above. Do you think its the regulator not working so well at lower psi... Maybe time for a new regulator? Or is it possibly the length of my air hose? I have a VERY long air hose, about 5-6 meters from when I used to have to paint outside. Any thoughts?

[Rayloke]

Looks like the psi problem, a high chance is due to the pressure vault.

If that's the problem, tune to a certain pressure where u get consistent pressure. then u gotta be extra careful with the paint having tearing issue (paint moves like tears). The dry blowing process gotta be more frequent.

This is a temporary solution without changing any hardware.

[banzai]

Change of hardware? Ugh... So its starting to go. Bah. Yes I can use that as a temporary solution but it will definitely piss me off eventually. Is this a repairable problem or should I start hunting around for new gear? Its pretty old, about 6 years old now... I don't mind just have to re-budget for the month.

[Rayloke]

Huhu serious i dunno. But if it's just a pressure regulator, it probably cost u like RM20~RM30.

No i dont mean changing the whole compressor.

P/S: I m using a very long hose too. n i realised the pressure set without air flow n with air flow, sometimes the pressure has a pretty big gap. That might be the problem. try a shorter hose n see whether it helps.

[banzai]

Yes I will be trying tonight with a short hose. Might need to get a new water trap then because my long hose has a water trap on it but my short hose doesn't. I'll try to see if I can get a consistent low PSI with the short hose.If its the regulator then I have to hunt for a new regulator. Blaaah. At least its not expensive.

[banzai]

Found out! It as the hose... Or rather I think it was the seal between my quick release and the compressor. Maybe at a higher psi the pressure was expanding the hose so I couldn't detect a loss of pressure or something. Did the soapy water test around the attachment... 25 psi, no problem. 9 psi... Bubble starts forming. Took off all the old tape, re-sealed with plumber's tape and now its not losing pressure anymore. Works with the long or the short hose although I've noticed I don't drop as much pressure with the shorter hose. Might look for a new water trap/filter anyway.

Problem solved. Hray! Thanks guys.