OGB - Halt!!! (Mg 1/100 Zaku ver 2 dio)

[Rayloke]

Time is really running short, if i were to build something i m proud of before year end starts......

Anyway what i m going to do is a jungle diorama. So what's overkill here? Actually i dont really have much idea. To me, i have not built a thick foliage filled jungle before... So lots of trees... overkilled with blurdy trees, i guess, would be the lame excuse...


Basically the idea/story is 3 zakus are about to ambush an enemy base. Location would be a tropical forest , near the cliff of a small hill. Not the really dense tropical jungle, but more of a medium height forest.

....


First thing firtst, snapfitted 3 zakus..... this is almost killing me.. and think of the future where i have got to do factory assembly line-style painting.....


For the dio base, mainly to confirm the size n positions:


1. i use Styrofoam. since i only have those thin sheet kind, i have to cut n glue them together for the basic form:




2. With help of Styrofoam cutter n the heat gun:




3. Basic shape n a little bit of texture:



4. positioning the zakus:



5. after putting the zakus in, i realized the base is a little too big. so in the end, i saw off the right side of the base, almost 2".



So far for now. I would expect my next update would be mid of september... hopefully can share a little bit about coloring.....


Sorry for the lack-of-excitement wip..... (Kena slapped...)

[balliga]

with 3 MG..I think this will be overkill bro...haha

[chin]

three zakus!
so patient man!

[Jeffho]

Huuuu... all started 'sai lang' liao~
but i like this force!!! don't stop it & keep update more

[oldman]

jeff.. this guy where got 'sai lang' ... he still got many idea one..
not sharing .... haiz ...

[genosider]

I guess it's back to work after Japan trip and full steam ahead for GBWC! ;D

I really like the pose of the first zaku up there. Like half afraid, half I-don't-know what-am-I-doing brave to peek over the top...

[helblack]

whoah, big project started. look forward for next updates..

[beckylaw]

wow, jungle terrain, me likey.

looking forward for more updates.

[Rayloke]

Thanks guys for the encouragement, i know the wip really has nothing much to see ......

Ok update:


Honestly, doing 3 pcs mass production type MG is really vomiting blood!!!!! The whole 3 weeks of August, i had been doing assembly line pre-coloring work.

Just share a small tip which i think might ease up the work. To me it's relatively easy n fast, n require not that much of brain juice n judgement; which makes it ideal for assembly line boring work.....

to me doing assembly work, the riskiest part is the overall imbalance. As opposite to my previous projects, where weathering is pretty much done post coloring, meaning use paint to show weatring, this round i split such task into 2 stages, pre-color n post color.

So if one of the processes got imbalanced or badly done, at least i still have the other 50% to try cover it up.


Doing pre-color texturing :



Router.....





To create texture on the surface. Basically, this step doesn't require much precision n thinking n judgement. hence, eventhough it is freaking boring work, working on it for hours still, u wont get wrong. Even if u have dont it wrong, we still have the next few steps to cover it up..... Hoho

Note: As u can see, i have over done it a little bit......





Next step: Since what being created by router is a little round, i use a knife to create a feww parts with slightly sharper edges.






Ok i use surfacer. This serves too purposes. One, for any overly done part by the router, i use surfacer to make it softer.

The application is such: apply ome surfacer onto the surface of the plastic, then use a brush to lightly tap on it. With this it will create a rough surface.


The questions: why not just do it like the traditional way of using putty? This is because, i prefer a softer tone. As compared to putty, surfacer is softer n cannot create surface as rough as putty can do. For 1/100 scale, i think it's pretty natural.

Besides that, surfacer tends to be softer n can be melted by thinner again. As u can see, the effect i hv done here might look pretty overdone, but on the next step, painting diluted by thinner, will even smoothen the surface.





That's it for this round.......

[quan]

more tree ~!!!! make its Amazon >.<

[ebay]

nice terrain and slope.
learning something new on the mr surfacer application.

[juliuslim]

aiseehh.... smell heavy weathering ....

[struschie]

Looks good!

[aorordie70]

I love your idea!!!! The will be very rusty and dirty....

[duelmasterng]

Nice!

[bayu]

Dammit, I clicked because of the possibility of an update. Gimme my click back.

[Rayloke]

Thanks guys for your support! Feel really bad for some half @*censored* cooked wip....


Update: 10th September 2012



First of all, there r always frens n modelers come to search my treasures for any option parts of leftover from previous porjects. Some even wonder how I can end up with so much extra parts. 2 reasons:

1. work. be hardworking, work on models, especially older models where they have quite an amount of optional parts.

2. Cannot see, dont do. Of course some will find it self satisfactory to build stuff that cannot be seen. But no, for me, cannot see means no need build n can salvage for future use. This project because i m in quite a rush, which i dont have much time to plan n figure out which parts i can salvage. But still, i can get a few pretty nice parts that i believe would be pretty useful in the future.

These r just the 6 pairs of piston/hydraulics from zaku 2.0, not even including all the cockpits n thigh inner frame parts.....






Time for some metal spring for the power cord...... Since i will be using the original plastics parts, hence i need to recreate the shape of how the power cable would be bended.

I m using Koto's spring as it's darker in color and the rust looks prettier that the chrome spring as in Wave's





First, use sand paper to sand off the protective layer. then use salt water (Acid also can, in fact, acid will even react faster. Acid, u can use viniger or even orange juice ) to partially attack a few places where u want the rust to be the strongest. This is the first round of erosive action (oxidization).






Second phase, salt water, n soak the whole thing in, add a little heat (not boiling water, u still need the oxygen in the water).

Left it for a weekend n the result is so much worse than i expected. but no worries, the rust is mainly on the surface, lightly sand will get rid of most of them.





Continue with the EFSF base... really no inspiration.... also i dont want the base to overshine the action down hill (excuse)




Zero1st.

Er... well, just say that when a fella modeler work together with u side by side, if u guys r not fooling around talking crap, it really boost your speed n concentration.



*************************************************************************************************************************************************

Coloring stage:

(Seriously, i can feel a lil' burned out ady.....)



Randomly put some contrasting colors, so that when i spray the main color on top, the randomness of the colors at the bottom will give the main coat of color a more realistic finish.... Ok, this is pretty much ALL the parts i did with it. Got so bored n lost patience, i decided to call it off (Muahahahaha)






This is how i did the short cut way. Honestly i think the effect is really no fight to the the non-short-cut way (The one with random color at the bottom). I just use ab to create some "random" dots n line. Later use the main color to cover n create, hopefully, some randomness in color......




Oh the dark blue, besides being used to do some random patterns, i used it for preshade too. This is the part where i did apply random color, with preshade.

Take note that since almost all of my Mr Hobby is dried (No time to melt them to use this round), i m using mainly Gaia color for paint application. since Gaia's famous/infamous reputation in being opaque, the shading are done pretty strongly.

(Note: After i sprayed the main color, i realise the few parts where i wasn't that lazy, with random colors at the bottom, looks so much more natural n nice. Well, how much effort u put in, n how much the result u will get....)






Shading done on the fence n the the base. The lines is done such way is for water streak stains later.....




That's it for this round. Nothing much. As i realise shooting pictures during air brushing time is really a pain in the @ss.....

C&C welcome!

[bayu]

Nice update, even your WIP shots are sharp. So, the rust technique only works on metal objects?

[Phoon]

Lovely techniques! I'm expecting results gonna be awesome! BTW, nice photo shots of Zero1st! (Brudder)...gambare ooo......more or less 9 weeks to go........ ;D ;D ;D

[Rayloke]

Thanks guys. Actually these r nothing big to shout, pretty fundamental stuff...

Bayu: yeah, not really rust technique or so, just instead of painting the rust, since the part is metal, just make it rust in real. acid n salt is just to spped up the process.